In March, Alternative Arts presents east London’s major fashion event, London’s Swatch Alternative Fashion Week.

From the 20th-24th, Spitalfields will play host to a fresh crop of talent from the fashion world. The event will be the place new designers will want to be seen as it provides a genuine alternative for those with truly innovative talent to present their work directly to the press, public and the fashion industry. What’s more, in a true bid of support, Alternative Arts produces and directs the entire event at no charge to the designers.

The Alternative Fashion Week 2006 will seek to platform the designs of over sixty young designers. The talent will be selected from applications received from independent designers who want to establish their labels. Also welcome are recent fashion and textile graduates and designers who come from the world of circus, theatre, carnival and club. Expect anything from elegant to edgy.

Running alongside the torrent of fashion shows, two major awards will also be awarded. The Individual Designer Award for The College Award for most original collection based on the theme of TIME.

In a programme that features live jazz and twelve new designers each day, highlights will include original textiles along with womenswear and menswear.

Gear up because this is one fashion event that any true fashionista wouldn’t want to miss for the world.

Admission is Free.
For more information please visit: www.alternativearts.co.uk

Picture Credit: Simon Klyne

“Finding freshness and innovation in our everyday clichés through different angles of observation, the SS06 collection becomes a collage like composition of familiar sources in an unfamiliar way. When combining these elements their original identity ceases to exist and is replaced by a new foreign one.”

The creation of selfhood or identity is achieved through the process of assembly, creating an illusion of wholeness in place of remixed parts.” Borba Margo 2005

Borba Margo is a collaboration driven by the designers’ fascination with the processes of re-oberving, re-adapting and re-inventing. They combine beauty and function to their designs which range from clothes to furniture to accessories.

For their Spring Summer 2006 collection, Borba Margo intend to apply their philosophy with combining various elements of colour to add a sense of the luxurious and using a diverse mix of materials. For Borba Margo it is about “finding freshness and innovation in our everyday clichés through different angles of observation…When combining these elements their original identity ceases to exist and is replaced by a new foreign one. The garments flirt with the idea of being an accessory, accessories flirt with the idea of being furniture. They are all confusingly inspired by each other to the point where they mutate into unique and poetic objects.”

The label’s current addition is the much sought after Multicentric Belts. As the name suggests the idea is based on a belt with multiple centers. Groups of different sized and shaped brass buckles have been soldered into clusters and named Multicentric as they provide many centre-points to start from, giving the illusion of wearing a number of belts at once. All pieces are individually hand crafted and uses Italian “Yucatan” leather which is of supreme quality.

Borba Margo is stocked in exclusive boutiques internationally including Adelaide and Beams - Tokyo, Le Shop - Stockholm, Poepke - Sydney and in London’s Browns Focus and Dover Street Market.

Walking down Brick Lane on a Sunday afternoon one might get confronted by an onslaught of the types we tend to associate with the word ‘trendy’. Not that these individuals are want of being type-cast or described within the confines of a word.

‘Trendy’ however, isn’t a word to be taken lightly and those who find themselves clambering around its confines are left with handling its very precarious nature of being a virtual oxymoron while paying the high price of dressing up well.

Speaking of paying for straying (from stereotypes), while browsing around mothball, musty smelling piles of so-called Vintage that could’ve in fact be found in a grandaunts closet had we realised the true potential of nylon and polyester, you might find yourself wondering 2 things: Why (if there’s an actual street called Fashion Street up the road) you’re looking through a rack of someone else’s discards instead of something truly original, and more importantly, why these clothes cost more than your monthly pay cheque would allow.

If these questions pop up in your mind then you might want to wander further down the road and on to the pink lettered doorstep of The Laden Showroom.
Barry Laden started the Laden Showroom in 1999 in a true show of sibling affection because of his sister Adele, a fledgling designer. Like many designers she had a market stall in Camden but dreamed of having her creations in a shop. ‘Adele really wanted to have her own shop and she wanted to be in Brick Lane which she believed (rightly!) was up and coming at the time. I did some research and realised that loads of designers with lots of talent were out there, but few had any business experience and therefore it was impossible for them to get their own shops. The Laden Showroom was created so that lots of designers could be under one roof to show and sell to the public’, explains Barry. Designers renting space leave the competent Barry Laden to handle business while they focus their talents on what they’re good at.

Sticking to what they’re good at seems to be working out well for the siblings as the showroom now commands the attention of ‘trendy royalty’, that of celebrity. To name drop but a few, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Noel Gallagher and Victoria Beckham have been seen perusing the showroom.

With famous faces appearing it’s safe to say success has been sniffing at the showroom’s doorstep. ‘I remember when we started inside this huge empty shell with no designers and wondering what would happen. Gradually we grew and had an office in the back half of the shop. After a couple of years there was such a demand for space that the office moved out to a building opposite and all the spaces were filled with designers’. True to form, The Laden Showroom has been given mention in various magazines and television across the UK and internationally. It’s been so popular that they no longer have to source designers and have a waiting list of fashion talent eager to rent a space.

One must think, with a showroom full of original designs, celebrities popping in and international recognition, prices would stretch the average Brick Lane pocket but heave a sigh of relief. Being wholly committed to designers and against what’s known as ‘Rip Off Britain’, The Laden Showroom retains price tags that won’t make the average buyer gawk. Skirts can range between £20-£55, tops are £15-£40 and tee shirts average £20-25. What’s more, the showroom is open 7 days a week. Well worth a look in on your Sunday afternoon. It is bound to counter those bouts of cynicism on that sticky subject of originality not to mention satiating anyone with a real need to satisfy their sense of trend.

Tattooing is an exciting and constantly involving art form, all the more fascinating now that it’s coming out of the land of deviancy to become a familiar expression of freedom.

The world of tattooing in the western world stems from gangs and outsiders - bikers and sailors - and originally criminals and slaves. From this extreme deviancy, body art has blossomed into the mainstream through a kaleidoscope of fashion, celebrity endorsement, popular cultural movements such as the hippy era, punk and the increasing liberty from conservatism the middle classes have experienced over the last decade.

It is the exciting branding of identity and social communication through physical expression, as well as the association in the west with rebellion, which has captured the fashion designers’ imaginations. In his 1993 fall collection, Jean-Paul Gaultier put his sheer bodysuit coated in tattoo enthused twists and spins on the catwalk, creating a new step in acceptability for the look. Inspiration for this show came from the contrasting sources of banknotes and his eternal interest in Hells Angels and mariners. Galliano combined underground, sexy Film Noir imagery with ‘old-school ink’ full body tattoo suits at Glow, Vancouver, 2004, creating a huge spin off in tights and sleeves on the high street.

Galliano founded his body art creations largely from western ideas of tattooing, but interestingly, on the far side of the world tattoos have converse connotations. Rather than a mark of rebellion and therefore often exclusion, they offer inclusion and are a mark of respect and recognition, of status and tell narratives of ancestral history. The word tattoo is actually derived from the Tahitian, ‘ta tau,’ to mark. Gaultier has used this body art culture for ideas as has Paco Rabanne, both leading to huge debate. Many Polynesians and Maori felt offended by this use of their iconography, disregard shown for the symbolism of the markings. It is not usually felt that Polynesian tattoo is impossible to incorporate into western culture however. Robbie Williams’s piece on his shoulder and Ben Harper’s full back Moko have been executed by traditional artists from the original countries and most feel this is completely acceptable.

Following their hero’s lead or the latest fashions are fine, but interestingly many don’t consider that you can’t take off a tattoo like a T-shirt. Decorating one’s body ultimately leads to judgments, not always positive and once there, the marked and their viewers are left with the impression. Tattooing is an exciting and constantly evolving art form, all the more fascinating now that it’s coming out of the land of deviancy to become a familiar expression of freedom.

It’s upon us again, time for the models to be on their best behaviour, for the kings and queens of style to get in gear and for everyone else to pay attention.

London Fashion Week 2005, awaits. In the hubbub of Fashion Week’s trendy events, East London’s mirrorstudios presents the London Fashion Week 2005 off-schedule fashion show.

Offering a platform, or rather a catwalk for new fashion talent to showcase their creative flair. To be held at mirrorstudios, there will be four fashion shows per day and showcases will run with each designer having their individual fashion shows throughout the day. Among those putting on shows are Jatin Patel, Raishma Islam, Ema Womersley and the labels Son of a Stag and Leathertex.

Designers with Asian influences add to the eclecticism of the show. Bringing flavour to the catwalk is Jatin Patel an exciting Anglo- Indian designer who will be showcasing his debut collection of women’s wear, personify which, according to Jatin competes at “fusing the boundaries between decadent eveningwear with work wear.” Jatin is looking forward to launching his womens wear fashion label, believing in the “individuality and dualities of women” and hopes to emphasise this with his label. Raishma Islam is a couture-trained designer fast making her presence known with a growing celebrity clientele. Already with creations adorning the pages of Vogue Brides and Hello magazine, Raishma boasts an amazing eye for detail producing amongst her creations hand embroidered wedding gowns and catsuits. With that in mind, Raishma operates by, “fusing her East-West roots to produce sexy, elegant clothes with the most beautiful detail, colour and cut.”

The label Son of a Stag comprises of a creative team of four, Emma Gibson, Ricci Williams, Fred Fan and Tai Li, who all operate in and around East London. The team agree that “participating in many other fashion, music and arts events held locally provides excellent brain food for this diverse collective, and allows them to really be one step ahead with trend prediction from hidden side streets.” The label intends to re-launch its new face with their new Spring/Summer ‘06 menswear collection.

Ema Womersley, will be bringing her accessories collection, which includes hand-made feather earrings, fabric purses, scarves and belts. Her designs can be found at stalls in both Spitalfields and Portobello markets.
London Fashion Week Off-Schedule Fashion Show
18-26 September 2005
Mirrorstudios
55 Fashion Street, E1 6PX
020 7247 6556

Jatin Patel presents his debut collection ‘Personify’ for Spring / Summer 2006 launching, his Womenswear Fashion label. The contemporary brand blends the boundaries between work wear and decadent eveningwear. The innovative collection is an exploration into the Contemporary representations of feminine displays of power and protection, through the implementation of traditional masculine attire with symbolic armour.

Contact Details
jatinpatel1@london.com
Tel: 07787572700

Raishma
Raishma Islam has long been one of London‘s fashion scene’s biggest secrets. The hugely talented designer has created stunning wardrobes for some of UK‘s wealthiest and most high profile fashionistas - including leading actors, politicians, pop stars and royalty.

Contact Details
Tel: 020 8795 4110
designs@raishma.co.uk
www.raishma.co.uk

Leathertex Direct
stock and sell quality leather jackets made from sheepskin or cow hide

Contact Details
Tel: 015394 88100
Fax: 015394 88300
www.leathertexdirect.com

Semi chain-smoking rollies, Victor Salvetti wears a black T-shirt printed with little cartoon skulls. Grabbing his hair periodically, coaxing the quiff, his left eyebrow mirrors the ironic raising of the edge of his mouth and his lilting Aussie accent.

The two personalities of elaborate perfectionist and grounded working class man constantly challenge and compliment each other inside Salvetti. “My designs stand for durability, are factory orientated and practical,” he says. It is evident that romance factors strongly in his work. “I really like flowing fabrics, fluted skirts,” he demonstrates by gracefully tracing the red embroidered spider silhouettes on Anna, his girlfriend’s, thigh.”My designs are directly about me, and not so much about outside influences. I came here to be inspired by Europe.” Are you? “No.” And a chuckle. “My inspirations are from myself, my past, my identity.” “The process of path-choosing, in every aspect, is an evolving process. I’m a Buddhist, I follow the Buddha’s lead, but if one direction doesn’t work out then I take another route which may also be suggested by his teachings. He’s a guide, not a god.”

Salvetti’s designs are usually in tough denim edge functionality with sexy cuts, zips and panelling. His clean lined collections come complete with thoughtful touches. “Do you know why I put pockets on all my garments for girls? Because I heard once the reason women’s clothes often don’t have them is so they can be subservient to men.” Like a true Aussie bloke, nature is a source of wonder. Insects are a widely exploited theme, “the preying mantis stares up the twig at the beautiful butterfly, but maybe bats and skulls next,” explains Salvetti. The dark side rears its scaly back again and Salvetti’s duality flicks between vulnerability and creative excitement; white, soft, excessive fabric and bats and death. , but he has proved himself so he can explore and amalgamate anyway he wishes. A globe of ideas spin behind Salvetti’s tranquil sea green eyes. The two sides of his past work for prominence; gentle white concepts versus gothic teddy boy. His creations tread the line between delicate art and tough streetwear.Victor is unique, so are his garments.

For further information: indohot@hotmail.com
Caroline Healey
Photo Richard Hübner